Hanoi – the charming capital

Being born and raised in Vietnam, I had never been to Hanoi or the north of Vietnam until now, 35 years later. My first impression of Vietnam’s capital was … the harsh weather in mid-July. It was hot and humid, as expected, but what I wasn’t prepared for is sweating through my shirt on a 20-minute walk (both shaded and in direct sun). I know, we picked the hot July summer to be there, so it was completely on us, but still, oh the heat in Hanoi.

Before I get into where we stayed and what we ate, some quick thoughts about the city (besides the scorching temperature). Hanoi is a charming city, no question about that. The Old Quarters house those tiny and old-time vibe houses, many of which are also coffee shops and restaurants. It’s an easy area to walk around if you’re up for it. Just make sure to wear a comfy pair of shoes for walking, a breathable outfit, and maybe a mini-fan if you are there in summer. Luckily, we didn’t get the rain on the day we explored Hanoi by foot, but be sure to also pack some water-resistant hats or an umbrella as well, as those rains do come and go during this time of the year. Also, I’d really recommend doing a drive-by tour to see all 36 “phố phường” (streets) of the Old Quarters if you have a rented car or scooter. Each street was named after the goods being sold or offered at the time; for example, Phố Hàng Bạc (Silver Street) is where people would sell jewelry. Although most of them don’t sell such items nowadays, it’s a great way to learn about the Hanoi cultures and traditions back in the old days.

Capella Hanoi Hotel

Capella Hanoi is located right in the center of Hanoi in Hoan Kiem district, by the Old Quarters. The buildings surrounding the hotel (the famous Metropole hotel is right across from Capella) are colonial French style, making this hotel blend in very well with its stylish but modern French look. Before this trip, I had looked up the place countless times, trying to get the feel of the inside. To be completely honest, I was a bit nervous about the over-the-top decor as it appeared in photos and videos online. But I was pleasantly surprised the second we got dropped off by the hotel’s car service and escorted inside to the lobby. The hotel was stunning, and I was in complete awe. The shiny floor with marble details everywhere in the lobby and their Diva’s lounge bar located right when you walk into the hotel. The decor is definitely noticeably busy with a very unique taste, and it’s also tastefully done. Colorful but not tacky, a lot but not overwhelming.

Each guest room floor is categorized by a theme, like “Actors”, “Singers”, “Artists”, etc., and our floor is on the “Actors” floor. Their elevators are also decked out with huge murals of celebrities, which was very fun when we first got into the lift. Our floor hallway is also decorated with paintings of famous actors, with black doors and walls surrounding it, and black & white checker tiles. Honestly, typing this out feels like there is a lot going on, and trust me, it was. But for some reason, it all went well together, creating this magical and whimsical place.

Our hotel room, a Premier Suite, is such a good room. It’s big enough, although it isn’t the biggest suite we have stayed at. The space is efficient: a dining table, a huge bar, a decent-sized living room, a bedroom, and a toilet room that is separated from the bathroom. They also have a few recommended Spotify playlists that we did play a few, and they did really set the mood for the day/night. The whole experience was so elegant and fitting with the hotel’s vibe. One cool detail was that their own crafted cocktail – the Opera, was available in the room for us to try if desired. Spoiler alert: it was a good cocktail.

Overall, I would definitely recommend the Capella Hotel if you are in Hanoi. We enjoyed our stay so much that I can confidently say that the hotel was the highlight of the trip for everyone on this trip. They also offer free breakfast, free afternoon tea, and free cocktails during certain hours of the day. Although this depends on which room rate package selected, I do think it was worth the price tag!

Hanoi Food

Can I be honest? Personally, I’ve found the food in Hanoi a bit disappointing to my taste (and my family’s tastes, too). We have had the Beef Pho, Chicken Pho, Cha Ca Thang Long, Egg Coffee, regular coffee, a Northern family-style dinner, and Bun Cha. Out of everything, Bun Cha was the best dish there, and it was actually really good. Everything else was underwhelming, and I think I sort of expected that, knowing their flavor was a lot less rich than southern food (Saigon, it is). The beef Pho was good, but not something I’d crave for. The chicken Pho was forgettable, and the most disappointing dish was Cha Ca Thang Long. We all had such high expectations for the Cha Ca dish, and maybe that was the reason why it flopped so much for me. Although, my older sister loved it, still (her second time in Hanoi), so it is 100% personal. Try these famous dishes for yourself when you visit the capital, and you may like them! For me, it wouldn’t be the food that would bring me back to Hanoi (to each their own), except for Bun Cha.

One tip: I got recommended by a friend to Tuyết Bún Chả 34 (the fourth picture below) as it’s not as touristy. However, it is always packed with locals, so be prepared if you can’t be seated right away. We went at 1pm and got a table for 9 people right away, but I do think it was just pure luck!

One thing I want to say about the Egg Coffee: I think it’s good and lives up to the hype. It is surely the Hanoi specialty that everyone should try – go to Cafe Giảng as it is the Egg Coffee’s birthplace. It’s definitely more a dessert drink than a coffee for me, and because of that, I’m not crazy about it. We did randomly find Tenement Coffee and Wine Bar near the Capella Hotel, and their latte was amazing! The space is very cute, too. We didn’t come back for the wine bar in the evening, but I’m sure it would have a great vibe. Put Tenement Coffee and Wine Bar on your list if you also want a regular espresso drink or two on your Hanoi trip!

If you fancy for an upscale Vietnamese dinner, check out the Backstage at Capella Hanoi. They have won Michelin Selected two years in a row, and I can attest that their food is delicious, just pricey. Not a bad way to treat yourself to some clean & great service experience, though.

Final Thoughts

Although our time was short in Hanoi (1.5 days), I’m glad we visited the capital of Vietnam, especially as Vietnam is my country of birth. I think when you visit does place a big role in the experience, as we were dreading any walks in the city, days or nights. That also made us really limit down the sightseeing activities we wanted to do, but I didn’t feel like we missed out on things (we visited a lot of temples and the kings’ tombs in our trip to Hue city in 2022). Being born and raised in Saigon, I do have a biased opinion about which city is more fun and what region has better food. However, as I stated, I am glad for the opportunity to visit Hanoi, and now I can add authentic Bun Cha into my favorite food list.

If you have visited Hanoi, or plan to, drop a comment on this post. I want to hear about your own experience, or if you have any questions about your upcoming trip!

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