The Over 30 Girly's Edit

We have just returned from Switzerland for a 12-day holiday, and I have a few tips to share as a first-time visitor with no prior thoughts of what to expect in this beautiful country. Suppose you plan to travel to Switzerland for the summer, especially if the weather forecast indicates a warmer-than-usual temperature for the area; in that case, I hope this post will be insightful!

Our itinerary was: Zurich (2 nights) –> Grindelwald (2 nights) –> Zermatt (3 nights) –> Lucerne (3 nights) –> Zurich (1 night)

One caveat is that we’re not a hiking enthusiast type of family. Our primary goal in Switzerland was to see Jungfrau and the Matterhorn; everything else was a bit more low-key without a specific activity agenda, which might be the best way to travel for me, personally. Our original itinerary included one night in Montreux and two nights in Lucerne, but soon enough when we realized that the average train time from each of these destinations was about three hours with one or two train changes, the one night in another lake town of Montreux didn’t seem worth it as it would have not been long enough for us to enjoy. Turned out that was the best decision to adjust the itinerary.

With that, let’s get into each of these beautiful cities of Switzerland!

Zurich

Where to Stay – Mandarin Oriental, Savoy Zurich

If your budget falls within their range, I don’t think there’s a better choice than the Mandarin Oriental here, which may or may not be a great thing in terms of luxury hotel selection in Zurich. The hotel is beautiful, but small, particularly in its common areas, such as the lobby, lounge, and gym. However, the junior suite we got was a decent-sized room with a beautiful bathroom. They also use Diptyque for their products, which makes the shower and getting ready feel a lot more luxurious. There was some mishaps in terms of room type availability, but that’s a story for another day.

The location of this hotel is perfect for exploring the city, with shopping streets on one side and the Old Town (Altstadt), featuring restaurants and Lake Zurich, on the other. You cannot go wrong here.

What To Do

Zurich is a beautiful place, with Lake Zurich making it a picture-perfect city that immediately captured my heart when we first arrived. The charming old European buildings on every street, at every corner of the town, combined with the cobbled streets of the Swiss Old Town’s restaurants, stores, and churches, create a unique spot for the country.

Taking a stroll in the Old Town, stopping by at each of the shops, and gasping at the Swiss flags on the Bahnhofstrasse street were just some of the common things we experienced there. We technically only had one full day in Zurich, so, besides just walking the streets of Zurich or alongside Lake Zurich, it was a very easy day for us to ease into after a long trip from the PNW. One thing that was disappointing was that we couldn’t visit the Lindt Home of Chocolate, which offers interactive tours of the chocolate factory. It requires reservations in advance, so be sure to plan for that if it’s on your list.

Where To Eat

I must be honest here – I was pretty nervous about eating in Switzerland before we arrived. I am lactose intolerant, and I was worried about the Swiss food that I saw online – creamy, cheesy, and heavy dishes. To plan for this trip, I made sure to find restaurants with more diverse options than just Swiss cuisine, and Zurich proved to be an easy city in which to do so.

However, we couldn’t possibly visit Switzerland without trying the traditional Swiss cuisine. zum Kropf is the place to get introduced to their food, and the inside of the restaurant is very stunning. We got the (best) beef tartare, traditional boiled beef in clear broth, and veggies (so good and unexpected), original wienerschnitzel, and braised beef with noodles. Highly recommend!

Another dinner spot we visited was The Old Inn, which serves Asian fusion cuisine. A very cool space, serving delicious cocktails and very yummy food. The menu is tapas-style, so it’s a great experience for sharing with family, and that meant we ordered way too much food. We came here to celebrate my husband’s and my stepson’s birthdays, which the staff made sure we were very spoiled with surprises for the boys. It was a very fun experience with delicious treats!

For lunch, try Boucherie AuGust in the Lindenhof area for some delicious meats and sausages. We stumbled upon this place after a long morning of shopping and walking around in the summer heat (~86 degrees), and it did not disappoint. We ordered the Le Grand Plat for 2 people, which easily fed the three of us with leftovers! There were ham, sausages, veal, beef stroganoff, and filet mignon. There were plenty of seats outside the restaurant at lunchtime, but I think reservations might be recommended for dinner if that’s what you fancy.

For a morning pastry treat, head to Babu’s Bakery Coffee House. There are multiple locations in the city, and they are always swamped. The line for a table was quite long, and it didn’t seem to be moving at all, so we opted to order coffee and pastries for takeout. Now that I’ve given up drinking coffee for some time, I was thrilled to discover a spot that serves a delicious matcha latte. Coffee, tea, and a few pastries, including a croissant, a chocolate croissant, and a vanilla scone – we walked over to the botanical garden a block away to enjoy the treats under the shade. It was heaven.

Grindelwald

Where To Stay – The Belvedere

Stay here for the most iconic view of the Eiger mountain. And, I mean, it was iconic. It’s definitely the only reason why I would stay here. Oh, and because they have AC. We originally booked a different hotel, which was a bit nicer, more modern, with a gym and a spa. But, after my husband found out that they had zero AC in their rooms, he decided to book a different hotel that did. I don’t know how the people in Grindelwald do it, or even the visitors at these hotels without AC do it, but if the temperature hits close to 90 degrees and the sun is shining for the entire day, please give me an air-conditioned room. Are we crazy? The Swiss people are not used to this type of hot summer, but with global warming, I hope they are going to start installing those ACs.

Besides the view and the AC, the Belvedere is located very close to the train station, the terminal, and the main town. They do offer pickup from the train when you arrive, and I’d definitely take advantage of it, as it’d be helpful not having to wheel the luggage on these cobblestone streets while trying to figure out where to go. Once you’re familiar with the town, walking back to the station would be an easy breezy task.

There is no gym on-site; however, they partner with a local gym nearby that opens at 7:00 a.m. However, I chose to run outdoors for both days because the scenery provided the perfect backdrop. Very hilly, though.

What To Do

The apparent activity is to visit the Jungfrau – Top of Europe attraction. It’s the reason we came to Grindelwald, and now that I’ve crossed it off the checklist, I’m not sure I would go back to Grindelwald again, for many reasons. The Jungfrau was very fun to do, though, and it was definitely worth it. Taking the cable car and then a train to the Top of Europe, there were things to do up there for sure, not just looking out at the Jungfrau. We took the cable car at 9:15 a.m. and returned to the Terminal around noon – it would easily take a whole day if you wandered around more there. The tip is to reserve your time for the cable car and the train! The line is so short for reservations, which, for popular days, would be a no-brainer.

Grindelwald First is another popular attraction, offering activities such as the Cliff Walk, Glider, and Mountain Carts. It wasn’t on our agenda, and I hate to say this, but I didn’t feel FOMO about not doing more touristy things in Grindelwald. The town seemed to be exploding with tourists from many other countries, particularly from Asia, which made me feel as though they didn’t know how to handle the influx of tourists. It almost made it less enjoyable because the hospitality wasn’t there – at some times, it seemed like they were angry at us, the tourists. A bit sad, actually. My guess is that it’s because of the Crash Landing On You series on Netflix that was filmed in Grindelwald, and you can tell the Korean influence on the town: Korean Shrimp chips, Shin ramen noodles, even the Kimchi Shin ramen noodles in the grocery stores that I could not find in my local Uwajimaya here.

Where To Eat

Grindelwald was where I struggled the most with the food options. Nothing sounded delicious, and even if the food was good, the flies ruined it. The flies were out of control. A hot day with high temperatures and flies buzzing around your food and drinks – sounds appetizing? No. I’m not sure if it was the food, the service, the overcrowded atmosphere, or the flies that ruined it for me. Perhaps, all of the above.

If there was ONE place I’d recommend, it’s Basecamp. They serve all types of food, including “Asian food”. Chicken teriyaki was flavorful, and the gyoza was decent. We just couldn’t eat fast enough to leave because of the flies. However, Basecamp – dare I say – was the only place where I received friendly service from all their staff. I’m not sure if the fly situation is a common occurrence in the summer there, and I’m grateful to see its beauty with my own eyes, but I don’t think we’ll see Grindelwald back anytime soon.

Zermatt

Where To Stay – THE OMNIA

Zermatt is no stranger to peak tourism, and it shows. There are numerous hotels at every turn, so it will depend on your budget; you will find the fitting accommodation. We picked THE OMNIA because of the Matterhorn’s view from the hotel, and it’s a lot more modern and newer than its luxury competition, which has a suite to accommodate two adults and a teenager, the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, across the street. The hotel is minimalist, but very clean and well-kept. From being picked up by their electric buggy (Zermatt is a no-car town), to amazing snacks and cocktails, the giant suite with two separate bathrooms (which is not a common thing for a suite in Switzerland), the perfect view on their terrace to enjoy welcome champagne, the personal greeting from the GM, and the great location of the hotel, everything was almost perfect.

I say almost because their AC didn’t seem to work, unfortunately. Zermatt, like other cities in Switzerland, experienced a heat wave that was not a common thing there, which was very hot. Luckily, the hotel had two Dyson fans for us to borrow, which helped tremendously on the second and third nights. Swiss people, how could you endure the heat so well??!!

What To Do

There are a ton of activities to do in Zermatt in the summertime, especially if you’re into hiking. We’re not, so I can’t offer you a recommendation for the best hikes, but there are plenty available online. We did the Gornegrat, which took us half a day to do by taking the cogwheel railway up the mountain. Once we got up there, the panoramic view of the Matterhorn was insane, especially on a clear day like the one we had. The temperature was also mild, so I just wore a T-shirt, jeans, and sneakers; I didn’t need to layer up. (As I mentioned, it was pretty toasty in Zermatt when we visited). Besides the views, there wasn’t much else to do there unless you hiked down to the town on foot. There was one open restaurant that closed for more service, and a completely closed restaurant, a very small shop, and lots of people, which was as expected.

We spent a lot of time walking around the town, and there were plenty of shops to go to. Most of the clothing stores sold winter and mountain attire, which was neither our type of activity nor the season we were there for, but it was still fun browsing around nonetheless.

Where To Eat

Unlike Grindelwald, Zermatt had a matcha latte! This isn’t fair for Grindelwald at all, of course, because what matcha latte?! Anyway, both MANUD and Petite Royal cafe served pretty decent matcha lattes and coffee, with Petite Royal having better quality ones between the two. For lunch, MANUD had a great menu, including salads, rice bowls, and Bahn Mi (they misspell it!), but their service was terrible. Wrong orders were entered multiple times for different tables, and only excuses were offered. It was too bad because their food was very delicious.

For dinner, if the budget allows, I’d recommend 1818 Eat & Drink, located in Hotel Monte Rosa. They served a flavorful South American cuisine – think pisco sours, corn, and lobster with tangy flavors! It’s possible that we were tired of the typical Swiss food, which often consisted of breaded, fried, and heavy meals; however, the food at 1818 was a pleasant surprise. Very yummy, but the bill was also the most expensive meal we’d had in Switzerland – about $500 for three people.

Another spot to check out is CasaMia, near the train station, serving Italian food. It was quite lovely inside, and people did dress up there, although the restaurant didn’t have a dress code, so wear what you would feel comfortable in for an Italian feast, as the portions were huge. We ordered a charcuterie plate, a pasta to share among the table, one pizza, and two mains – and oh boy, that was way too much food. I wish the server could have let us know that we didn’t need all that food, but she didn’t offer any suggestions or recommendations, nor did she express any concerns about potential food waste. The dishes were very yummy, but just be aware of their portion size.

Lucerne

Where To Stay – Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern

This hotel was lovely, with a lakefront location offering a fantastic view of Lake Luzern and the Mount Pilatus – it was truly a blessing to wake up in the morning and take in the extraordinary view from our room. The hotel brand renovated the former famous hotel and reopened its doors in 2022, preserving many of its original marble columns and the hotel’s original design. Staying true to the MO brand, their green color palette works very well with the pinkish/coral marble, making the place even more stunning, vibrant, yet chic and classy. I can’t remember how many times I’ve stopped and felt in awe of the flooring, the staircase, the hallway, the lighting, or even the ceiling. Truly well-designed and thoughtfully renovated by the brand.

Our Lake View Suite was spacious and came with the perfect view of Lake Luzern. The bathroom was also on-brand, big, and opulent. The shower, though, might have been one of the best showers we’ve taken in a long time. Needless to say, I am definitely a fan.

What To Do

Lucerne was my favorite city in Switzerland so far because there were many things to do there: swimming and boating on the lake, exploring Mount Pilatus, shopping in the city, visiting the Old Town, the Chapel Bridge, the Lion Monument, and more. We were in the town when they had their summer festival going on, and we joined them one night, enjoying live music every few blocks of the street, eating veal and pork sausage, drinking beer, and immersing ourselves with the locals.

To be honest, we also didn’t have an itinerary for Lucerne; we mostly let the day decide what to do and see. I truly enjoyed the city even more this way. For two mornings out of the three, I ran alongside the lake up over to the neighboring town. The view of these runs was majestic, and I wasn’t the only one thinking so; there were many other runners all morning, and I felt like I was part of their community. During the day, we wandered through the streets, did some of the touristy things, like the Chapel Bridge and the Lion Monument (which was 100% worth seeing), and took the time to really see Lucerne at a very slow pace. At the end of day one, I thought to myself that I could live here, and it’s not something I say lightly. My husband agreed.

Where To Eat

Similar to Zurich, perhaps even more so, Lucerne offered a wide range of diverse food options, including Swiss, French, Italian, Mediterranean, Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Spanish, and other international cuisines. Did I say Vietnamese? Yes, a few Vietnamese vendors, actually, and I was thrilled, especially since we were nearing the end of a 12-day trip to Switzerland. Maybe you would never do this, but I had Vietnamese three times in three days. So, obviously, I would recommend them: Banh Mi Pho Luzern (for banh mi, of course, but they also have many other dishes), and Sapa Canteen (we had their Bun Cha, and it hit the spot!).

Another spot worth checking out is Bolero, serving tapas, paella, and Gin & Tonics, just as a Spanish restaurant would. Their iberico jamon was a must, as well as the diced beef – sounds like nothing but the meat was tender, while the sauce slapped. Oh, they made their own olive oil for you to dip the bread in, and that was some serious olive oil! Their paella could be better, though; the rice was a bit wet. Regardless, we devoured our meals. We also enjoyed our server quite a lot, as he really suggested that we order less when it seemed like it would have been too much to eat. Contrary to CasaMia in Zermatt, this was much appreciated.

Last but not least, I have to give a shout-out to MOZern restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental hotel because their food and their spritz were to die for. We tried maybe most of their spritz; they were all delicious and unique in their own flavors. The food was a fusion of Asian, Swiss traditional, and Mediterranean cuisine – something for everyone. Bulgogi chicken wings, crispy duck rolls, mandu dumplings, pork chops, chicken thighs, the burger, and even their focaccia bread —all were so tasty. We tend to eat at the hotel on the last night of every trip, and this one did not disappoint.

Final Thoughts

Overall, the Switzerland trip was one of the lifetime experiences that, if you have the chance to do it, please don’t miss. Yes, it’s expensive, but it’s worth it, just for the majestic mountains and lakes that are scattered throughout the country. It’s quite far from where we live, and although their public transportation is excellent, they don’t have a particularly fast way to travel between towns.

I know I wasn’t too fond of Grindelwald, but I do want to emphasize that the town itself and the scenery there were truly one of a kind. In fact, my first impression of Grindelwald was strong; sadly, it was overshadowed by the crowds of tourists and the exhaustion of the locals.

If you plan to visit Switzerland anytime soon, check the weather and be prepared for what it will be – summer or winter. Whether to ensure you stay cool in the heat, or stay warm and safe in the cold. The train system could get complicated to get a handle on, and it’s not anything like the Japanese train or subway systems, trust me. Having just returned from Japan, I must admit that I was a bit disappointed with the Swiss train system in many ways. However, after a few 3-hour journeys and many changes, I had grown to understand and respect the system they had in place. Just be patient and pack something you can carry up and down the stairs at the stations and within the train itself. Get the Swiss Travel Pass, as it’s totally worth it, and take the time to read carefully about which platform, which train to take, car, and which section to board from. Be patient, and enjoy the view from every single train ride.